"a woman is not born, she is made" - de Beauvoir

The Beginning Surfer

If you are new to surfing like I am, trying to figure out what to do and when to do it can be very hard. Don't worry. I have spoke to many surfers and they all agree that this is true and even the most experienced miss a perfect wave from time to time. If you are just beginning or just thinking about it for the moment my advice to you is Just Do It! There is truly no feeling in the world like being in the ocean: you, your board and nature. No bills to pay, no kids to care for, no husbands and no bosses. Just you. Forget the day spa, the beauty bath and the manicure. Get out there and show the world what you are really made of!

Below is some advice that might help you get started.

First, It's best to spend some time watching other surfers. Keep an eye out for which waves they are catching, when they are catching them and how the waves are breaking. Look at when they start paddling, where there position is on the wave, how and when they get up as well as which way they go on the wave. Try to distinguish when they bail out and why.

Once you've had enough of sitting with "wax boy" on the beach get him to wax your stick and go for it! Decide whether you are regular foot or goofy-footed (see lingo) and get in the water.Walk your board out until the water is about waist deep and hop on. When you first paddle out you will need to adjust your position and weight on the board. You should be positioned so the nose is just barely (2-3") out of the water. Too little and you'll be going under, too much and you'll wear yourself out pushing water.

Start by catching a few waves and riding them in on your stomach. This will help you get used to the feel and get your position right. Keep your stroke nice and even so that you're not worn out by the time you get out there. There are several options for you when you encounter a wave that you need to get thru. First, pick up speed and either:
Plow right through it.
Raise your chest up with your arms so that the water passes between you and the board.
Duck Dive - Raise yourself up on one knee pushing the nose of the board under the wave following with your body. (This is a very complicated option)
Turtle dive - Just before the wave hits you, roll over on your back along with the board and pull the nose of the board down. Then roll back up
Bail - Make sure there is nobody within 25' of you, get off your board, and dive toward the bottom. This is for emergencies only. You will lose great distance and may hurt somebody in the process.

Being a newbie, it's very important to find the right surf break to learn in. The best breaks have a sandy bottom with small waves and long ride. You might be hard up to find the long ride but the beach break is usually the best location. Don't go to the most crowded, famous beaches. Find a quiet, mellow beach with small waves, less aggros and speedbumps.

Too many surf instructors will tell you to get to your knees first before standing. This is not the best advice and leads to kneeboarding, a curable but hard to overcome disease (believe me). You should go directly from lying down on your board to a squatting position with both feet on the board and your center of gravity low. This is called the "pop-up" method. Try this at home first. It may be difficult to do on the floor but you will find it much easier on the board.

There will be a "channel" of deeper water on the side of where the waves are breaking. This is where you should paddle out at so you don't have to go through the waves.

When you get out, try to stay to the side of the pack. This way you won't get in their way and they won't get in your way. There are unwritten laws of the waves (see etiquette below) but the most important rule is the surfer that catches the wave closest to the wave's break has the rights. If you haven't claimed the wave you need to stay clear or kick out of it. Once out in the lineup past the wave break, always keep an eye toward the incoming waves. Even though you are outside the normal break, a set can surprise you leaving you inside and in for a pounding. And you'll find yourself paddling back out without having a ride.

When you have found your wave, turn the board toward the shore and paddle as hard as you can with fast, even strokes. When the wave hits your feet take 2 or 3 more hard, strong strokes. When the whitewater gets to your chest you will feel the wave take over, pushing you ahead. This is the adrinaline rush. Your big chance! Popup and remember your stance, low and steady. If you stand up straight, you'll biff it. No doubt about it. And it most definately won't be graceful. . If the wave starts to break under you, back stroke with both hands, pulling yourself to the back of the wave. Turn and paddle back out keeping an eye on the next wave. It could be yours!

Most of all relax, enjoy yourself and make sure you go home feeling like a wet noodle with a stupid grin on your face! You're hooked! You're stoked! And you can't wait 'till the next adventure. Enjoy!

Learn the language of surfers! Visit the Surf Lingo page on our parent site.

Find surf instructors and surf schools on our links page.

Some Words on Etiquette

The rules of surfing are very simple and easy to adhere to. Following them can lead to a great experience and perhaps a story to tell.

1. Drive slowly thru intercoastal towns - More than likely there will be small children playing close to the streets.

2. Respect the environment -You are out there enjoying nature, make sure that you keep it clean.

3. Respect the locals and other surfers around you - Like it or not, they live there. They know the area and where the best breaks are.

4. If you're a local - Respect other surfers - Give them a chance to catch a wave, respect their visit to your beach.

5. Respect other people - Everyone has a right to enjoy the water. Avoid people and collisions at all costs. If you are involved or responsible stop and make sure everyone is o.k.

6. Wave ownership - Avoid other surfers already out there. The wave belongs to them while they are on it. Wave ownership simply means whoever stands first, in the face of the wave, closest to the curl of the wave, owns the wave.

7. Always Look Inside - Before you take ownership of a wave, make sure that there is not already a surfer claiming it. This will avoid collision and possible injury to you, your board or the other surfer.

8. Dropping In - Taking ownership of a wave that someone else has claimed is called "dropping in". This is a big no-no. Avoid it at all costs. If you're not sure, Don't. Where the waves are few and far between, , and some locals demand respect, you will be getting yourself into big trouble by doing this. You may hear people declaring their right by whistling, or shouting "Hey," "I got it," "Coming down," etc. If you unintentionally drop-in make sure to apologize and let them know it wasn't meant. Generally, apologies are accepted without further comment.

9. Paddling Out/Duck Diving - It is your responsiblity to steer clear of on-coming surfers. There are no brakes on the boards and they can not stop without bailing out. Collisions are painful to you, your board and the other surfer. Doing this can bring on a case of the major "aggros". If you remember to paddle out away from the breaking waves you will rarely encounter this problem. When paddling back out over or through a wave that someone is riding, move behind them. This will let them continue their ride even though you will be smashed by the whitewater. You will appreciate it when someone does it for you.

10. Beginners - Everyone has been a beginner at one time. Be patient, give them room to learn. Offer tips and advice.

Above all else, have a good attitude. The waves are not a place to take out your aggressions. Leave them at home. Have fun, Enjoy yourself and respect those around you. If you do make a mistake, apologize. If an apology was given to you, accept it without grudge. We are all humans here.

Page views 125